Sourcs: Vinum
Published: 06.2025.
Text: Harald Scholl
Photos: zVg
A winery that looks like a boutique hotel, a family with vision, and a grape variety that was once derided as a table wine and now excels in competitions. A story of rise, perseverance, and the strength of believing in one's own terroir.
Strolling through the vineyards of Momjan today, overlooking the rolling hills and the Adriatic Sea on the horizon, it’s hard to imagine how much courage and pioneering spirit it took to put this region on the international wine map. It was here, over a century ago, that the Kozlović family’s story began – initially small, down-to-earth, and entirely focused on home production. In 1904, the great-grandfather of today’s winemaker Gianfranco Kozlović produced his first wine. In barrels that were more patchwork than craftsmanship, they produced what was available: Malvazija, a touch of Teran, and Muscat – without pretension, but with a lot of heart and soul. Relics from this era can still be found in the old family home. They demonstrate that winemaking in this part of Europe has a much older and more natural tradition than is generally assumed.
Yet winemaking in Istria isn’t really a modern invention. Even the Romans valued the peninsula’s climatic conditions and exported wine from Poreč and Pula to Aquileia and even as far as Gaul. Later, it was Venetian merchants who traded Istrian wine for olive oil and salt. But for centuries, the region remained a no-man’s-land between great empires. First Habsburg, then Italy, then Yugoslavia. Continuity? None. Only after the collapse of Yugoslavia did a window open. For winemaking, this meant finally emerging from the shadow of cooperatives and moving toward self-confident, quality-oriented family businesses. Gianfranco and Antonella Kozlović recognized this opportunity early on. They wanted quality, wanted profile, and wanted to show that Istria could do more than just bulk wine. What was almost revolutionary at the time: their uncompromising commitment to their origins and to the indigenous grape variety Malvazija Istarska. While others were still importing Bordeaux grape varieties, Kozlović opted for independence – with success. His breakthrough came in 1998, when a clearly structured, aromatically dense Malvazija first attracted attention. No artificial fruit circus, but precise, mineral, and distinctive. The style was established – and in the following years it was sharpened, differentiated, and deepened. Kozlović demonstrated what Malvazija could truly do when taken seriously. This was a liberating move not only for his own winery – but for the entire region.
Architecture meets demands
n 2012, the family made a highly visible architectural statement: Built amidst the vines, adjacent to the old family home, at once understated and imposing, a winery building was created that attracted attention far beyond Croatia’s borders. A work of art made of concrete, glass, and wood – reduced to the essentials, yet with maximum impact and even greater practicality. From the outside, it’s hard to imagine how perfectly and functionally the cellar was conceived, how magnificently it facilitates the employees’ work. Inside, built into the mountain, there’s state-of-the-art cellar technology, stainless steel, barriques, and amphorae. And yet, anyone visiting the winery today feels more like they’re in an upscale boutique hotel. A modern wine shop, a functional tasting room, a spacious terrace with breathtaking views of the valley. And yet, everything here is subordinate to the wine. Functionality meets aesthetics – not the other way around.
But despite all the technology, the decisive factor remains the work outside in the vineyard. The Kozlović family currently cultivates around 25 hectares themselves, supplemented by grapes from long-standing partners. All wines are cultivated sustainably, yields are low, and work in the vineyard is intensive. And in the cellar? An old-fashioned yet contemporary credo: less intervention, more time. The classic Malvazija impresses with freshness and clarity, while the Santa Lucia—named after the best single vineyard site—exhibits depth, structure, and an almost Burgundian character. There is also an equally elegant Teran, a fine Muscat Momjanski, and select cuvées with international grape varieties, all characterized by their regional backbone.
A role model for an entire region
What has distinguished Kozlović over the years is not only his commitment to quality, but also his ability to think outside the box. Gianfranco was never a dogmatist, but also never a follower. He sought exchange, opened up to tourism early on, and invited sommeliers and journalists even before Croatia appeared on the wine scene’s radar. He understood that a good wine also needs a stage – and he created this stage himself: with tastings, events, and openness. This stage has now become international. The Malvazija Santa Lucia has been rated several times with more than 90 points by Decanter, Falstaff, and JamesSuckling.com. The British newspaper “The Independent” called the winery an “architectural marvel of New European winemaking” – and in a 2023 tasting, particularly praised the “textural complexity and saline elegance” of the white wines. The sommelier scene in London, Copenhagen, and Vienna has also long had Kozlović on its radar. The wines regularly appear on the menus of renowned restaurants such as the “Steirereck” in Vienna, the “Sat Bains” in Nottingham or the “Alchemist” in Copenhagen.
Yet despite this success, the winery has remained a family business – in the best sense of the word. Daughter Antonella contributes new ideas without cutting the roots, while sister Katarina takes care of marketing and guests. It is this seamless transition between generations that makes the winery so remarkable: no break, no radical change, but an organic evolution. What Kozlović achieves today goes beyond its own label. The winery has shown that Croatian wine can be world-class. It has helped transform Istria’s image – from an anonymous wine region to a quality hotspot. And it has encouraged other winemakers to also take the step towards quality. In a way, Kozlović’s rise symbolizes the resurgence of Croatian winemaking in general: from the shadow of the masses into the light of individuality.
Wines in the club package
Valle Zoi 2024
2025 to 2028
Youthful and lively aroma with dominant notes of green bell pepper and elderflower, nuances of mango, apricot, and papaya. Tendencies toward herbal and spicy notes, attributable to the Sauvignon Blanc.
Mariage: As an aperitif or accompaniment to light dishes such as salads, vegetables, risotto, pasta and seafood.
Santa Lucia Malvazija 2018
2025 to 2030
Aromas of blossom honey, meadow herbs, peach, and hints of physalis and mint. Attractive, complex. Juicy on the palate, with stone fruit nuances and a sophisticated acidity. Deep, savory finish.
Mariage: With fish in creamy sauces, grilled scallops, mushroom risotto, pasta with rich sauces.
Teran Selekcija 2021
2025 to 2036
Intense nose, ripe black berries, smoke, a hint of Mediterranean herbs. On the palate, it’s distinctly dry, with vibrant, well-balanced acidity. Ripe tannins, with hints of bitter cherry and dark chocolate.
Mariage: Harmonizes with hearty dishes such as steak, grilled meat or blue fish.
Kozlović Winery
The Kozlović winery in Momjan is one of the leading companies in modern winemaking in Istria. Since the late 1980s, it has stood for a consistent focus on quality in a region previously known primarily for mass production. With a focus on indigenous grape varieties such as Malvazija Istarska and Teran, as well as sustainable viticulture, the Kozlović family has achieved international recognition. Its architecture, cellar technology, and tourism concept follow a holistic approach that combines tradition and modernity. As one of the driving forces of the Croatian wine scene, the winery exemplifies Istria’s transformation from an anonymous production zone to a distinguished region of origin. The next generation is already involved, and the course remains unchanged, focused on quality.
Insider tip
Konoba Stari Podrum, Momjan
Located below the Kozlović winery, this family-run restaurant offers authentic traditional cuisine and is known for its generous use of truffles. Grilled dishes are cooked over an open fire, and the pasta is handmade. In spring, there’s wild asparagus, and in autumn, mushrooms of all varieties. Reservations are essential.
Further travel tips in the club package.
