Sourcs: Zadarski List
Published: 14.08..2025.
At the beginning of August, Istria became the stage for a synesthesia. In the main roles – renowned wine experts and wine academics from various parts of Europe. Directed and organized by my little self, and on the program – nine extraordinary wineries, world-renowned olive oils and the splendor of the Istrian table.
Wine trip
This was no ordinary wine tour, but a carefully organized professional wine trip for the purpose of promoting Croatia, in this case Istria and its wines, olive oils, and culinary heritage to the most demanding audience – professionals who shape the wine scene on an international level.
I already implemented such a project two years ago in Dalmatia, when the same experts stayed in Zadar and, from there, as a starting point, explored numerous other Dalmatian wine destinations.
What has been happening in Istria for years has been experienced these days in a concentrated, almost cinematic rhythm. Each winery brought the best of the best to the table, not only from their cellars but also from their olive groves. But, of course, along with the olive oils, there were also prosciutto, cheeses and truffles – a fragrant accompaniment to Istrian wines.
The Benvenuti winery and its host Nikola Benvenuti welcomed us in the refined elegance of the romantic Istrian town of Kaldir. The tasting culminated with Santa Elizabeta – the house’s premium wine, strong yet elegant, with a depth that leaves an indelible mark and which almost overnight turned visitors into passionate fans of the Teran variety.
Then came their famous dessert passito wines, rich and rounded like liquid gold, which also won the hearts and palates of our guests.
Million views
The Tomaz winery woke us up with a million-dollar view of Motovun and a marvelous modern building, where every dish, accompanied by carefully selected wines, became poetry translated into flavors. The deepest impression was left by the rare and distinctive Malvasia Nera, which won over guests with its unique aroma and character.
Fakin Winery once again reminded us that Teran is a true wine gem of Istria, which shined best in the labels Il Primo and Michel. Both labels revealed its most extractive and layered face, perfectly paired with refined creations from the kitchen, while fragrant Istrian truffles gave each dish a special, unforgettable character.
The Ipša Oil Mill and Winery, led by owner Irena and her son Ivan, opened a whole new chapter in our journey – one in which equal passion is dedicated to both wine and olive oil. Guests had the opportunity to taste world-class award-winning olive oils and participate in professional tasting education, discovering the differences in varieties, aromas and textures.
The tour of the estate included a tour of the modern oil mill and wine cellar. Of the rich wine palette, the line of macerated wines, such as Pinot Gris, stood out in particular – layered and rich in character, proof that Ipša masterfully combines two Istrian flagships into one story.
Luxurious postcard
The Damjanić Winery and its owners Željka and Ivan Damjanić won us over from the first moment with their warmth and hospitality, but also with a unique wine story that touches the heart – a story of dedication, family tradition and continuous improvement.
The tasting, among other things, revealed a range of impeccable Malvasia renditions, from fresh and vibrant to more complex and aged, each with a clear signature of the house. This diversity rounded off the experience and left the guests genuinely impressed.
Stancija Meneghetti was a luxurious postcard of Istria – an estate that, with its harmony of architecture and landscape, looks like a scene from a movie. The tour led through art installations in the vineyards, olive groves and luxurious villas of the estate, while tasting a range of top-quality oils, delicacies and wines.
A special moment was the side-by-side tasting of different vintages of the iconic Meneghetti Red wine, which clearly demonstrated the consistency, patience, and vision of this house – each vintage told its own story, and together they formed a mosaic of excellence.
Domaine Koquelicot was introduced to us by its owner Jacqueline Marovac, who is also a colleague from the International Wine Academy in Rust, which gave the tasting an additional professional touch. The glasses were filled with wines created in a combination of Burgundian charm and Istrian terroir, with a pronounced sense of elegance and balance.
The refined sparkling wine Kontempo and the fine, rounded white wine Belaigra stood out in particular, both with the house’s recognizable signature and aromatic complexity that won over our guests.
Quality standard
Luciano and Marina Visintin, owners of the Veralda winery, opened the doors to the world of Buje Malvasia, sparkling wines and unique macerated wines.
Our guests had the opportunity to learn about the specific vinification methods and philosophy of the winery, through expert stories by Luciano Visintin, which captured their attention as much as the wines in the glasses. The Veralda winery left an impression with its beautiful range of sparkling wines and unique macerated Buje Malvasias.
And then – the Kozlović winery.
The last day of wine visits ended in a valley where the nearby hills compete in beauty, and the monumental and luxurious winery building welcomed us in style and with the superb leadership of owners Gianfranco and Antonella Kozlović, who created a wonderful experience for us, combining architecture, landscape and wine.
Gianfranco himself gave us a real masterclass, which was rewarded with enthusiastic applause. Professional guidance, a warm welcome, and wines that have been the standard of quality in Croatia and beyond for decades, rounded off this unforgettable visit.
Right here, in a wonderful wine oasis surrounded by fragrant vineyards, we tasted a large number of fragrant Malvasia, Teran and Muscat from Momjan, and among them was one wine that particularly inspired visitors and which will become the Wine of the Week in this column.
The summary of the wine professionals’ visit to Istria is clear. Five days. Nine wineries. Hundreds of flavors and one Istria – which knows how to give the guest the best!
Kozlović, Santa Lucia, Malvasia, 2018.
This is a wine that whispers layers of elegance, the strength of the terroir and the vision of the winemaker who shaped it. The grapes come from vines planted back in 1961, which gives the wine an expressive minerality from the beginning. The harvest was carried out at full ripeness, and fermentation took place in large wooden barrels, with a maceration of 4–5 days. Gianfranco revealed to us how he tries to avoid malolactic fermentation, preserving the lively, natural freshness of the wine, which is so necessary for Malvasia. After fermentation, 12 months of aging in large French and Slavonian barrels, and subsequent aging in the bottle, rounded out the structure and brought impressive complexity.
On the nose it opens with aromas of ripe yellow fruit, fragrant quinces, peaches and apricots, with discreet tones of elegant wood and hints of vanilla and waxiness, and a subtle hint of fine oak. The layers of aroma are complemented by notes of delicate honey from flower meadows.
On the palate it is dry, full-bodied, creamy in texture, and rich in ripe aromas – from yellow fruit and quince, through subtle notes of tropical fruit, to bitter almonds. Pleasant freshness, perfectly balanced with an alcohol content of 13.5%, which gives the wine a long life and gastronomic potential. The finish is long, rich, refined, with discreet aromas of dried Istrian herbs and a refreshing citrus note that calls for another sip.
This wine has a distinct varietal character, but also a seriousness that was rarely associated with Istrian Malvasia until recently. By tasting the 2018 and 2013 vintages side by side, we were convinced of its longevity – primary aromas transition into tertiary aromas with a grace that delights. The aging potential of at least ten years makes it a collector’s wine, and the fact that this particular label was declared the best Malvasia in the world at the international World of Malvasia competition confirms its exceptionality. This label also won gold at Decanter and gold at the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles. Versatility, elegance and strength characterize this wonderful and exceptionally complex wine.
Ultimately, this is a wine that defines the pinnacle of Istrian Malvasia, but also sets the bar high for all other white varieties in Croatia. All in all, the 2018 Santa Lucia is the scent and taste of Istria translated into liquid art.
